十九世紀早 黑紗地一品文官仙鶴補子常服袍
拍卖行: 美国奥克里奇拍卖行 Oakridge Auction Gallery
拍品描述
英文品名:A Chinese black gauze court robe with first-rank crane badge 英文品相:Overall good condition, with small pinhole to right shoulder. 中文品相:總體品相良好,右肩有一處小洞 中英品相声明:We make every reasonable effort to examine and describe the condition of each lot. Condition reports are provided for reference only and may not identify every defect. Buyers are advised to inspect each lot before bidding. A successful bid is final and binding, and bidders are responsible for their bidding decisions. 本行已盡力核查幷描述每件拍品的品相。品相報告僅供參考,未必能涵蓋所有瑕疵,買家應在拍前自行檢查。拍品一經落錘成交,不得反悔,競買人應對其競拍行為負責。 细图链接:高清細圖鏈接:https://oag.smugmug.com/210-Sept-Day1 The robe is fashioned from black textile with subtly woven patterns and a restrained luster. It follows the characteristic wide-sleeved form of Qing official dress, with well-proportioned construction and tailoring conforming to established regulations, giving it a dignified and solemn appearance. The body is woven and embroidered throughout with silver-thread motifs of paired dragons pursuing a flaming pearl. A first-rank civil official's crane rank badge is attached at the center of both the front and back. Since antiquity, the crane has been regarded as an auspicious bird symbolizing purity and lofty virtue; here it conveys the ideals of upright conduct and attaining the highest official rank, serving as the emblem of the highest grade within the Qing civil bureaucracy. The badges are finely embroidered, depicting a crane with wings spread, standing above surging waves and surrounded by five bats, scrolling auspicious clouds, the Eight Treasures, and auspicious flowers. Below, layered waves and the conventional "sea and cliff" motif symbolize both the official's responsibility toward the realm and the wish for the enduring stability of the country. The changfu robe embodies the strict hierarchical order of the Qing bureaucratic system, bringing together official rank, Confucian ideals of moral conduct, and traditional weaving and embroidery techniques in a single garment. The restrained robe body contrasts with the richly worked rank badges, distinguishing it from the more elaborate splendor of ceremonial court dress covered with gold and silver dragon motifs, while reflecting the practical and disciplined bearing expected of court officials. It also demonstrates the ingenuity and craftsmanship of traditional embroidery. Preserved through the passage of time with its original form and embroidered decoration intact, the robe is an important material object for the study of Qing dress regulations and official ceremonial practices. Rich in historical and cultural significance, it is also a valuable example of historic embroidery with considerable collecting and display appeal. 袍身選用黑色織物,面料暗紋隱若,光華內斂,承襲清代官服典型寬袖制,衣身比例舒展有度,剪裁合乎典章規制,氣韻沉穆端方,衣身周身織繡銀絲雙龍戲珠紋。袍身正反兩面正中釘綴一方文官一品仙鶴補子,仙鶴自古便為高潔仙禽,取品行清正、一品當朝之吉祥寓意,是清代文官體系裡最高品級的身份符號。補子繡制精工,仙鶴振翅佇立於波濤之上,周身五蝠圍繞,祥雲漫卷,八寶穿插,瑞花點綴,下部海水江崖紋層瀾疊湧,既喻臣子肩擔江山社稷之責,亦含山河永固的美好祈願。 常服袍承載著清代官僚體系森嚴的等級秩序,將官階身份、儒家品行理想與傳統織繡技藝熔於一衣。不事繁奢的衣身與華麗精美的補子相互映襯,區別於朝服滿身金銀龍紋的盛大排場,更見朝堂官員務實謹肅的行事風範,盡顯傳統繡藝的巧思匠心。歷經歲月留存至今,完整保存原有形制與繡飾,既是研究清代服飾典章、官場禮制的重要實物,亦飽含深厚的歷史人文底蘊,為極具收藏與陳設價值的珍貴老繡藏品。
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